Most common technical FAQ
By finishing with waterbased PRIMERS
CAUSES:
Uneven applicator finishing; finish has had time to dry between first and second applications.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand back to bare wood. Apply the first two coats “wet to wet” and keep the finish in motion when applying the initial coat without going all the way to the wall.
CAUSES:
Poured finish has remained too long on the floor. The wood is absorbing excessive moisture and the finish is drying slower over these surfaces.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand back to bare wood and re-finish.
CAUSES:
Sanding scratches from coarse-grade sandpaper have not been sanded away; these absorb more finish and the colour darkens.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand to bare wood and re-finish.
CAUSES:
Cellulose finish mixed with sanding dust has been used for filling. Finish has been applied before this had dried.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand to bare wood and remove all white from the joint.
CAUSES:
The wrong type of finish has been used for the initial coat (adhesive properties are too good) and the wood has shrunk.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Remove the floor and relay it. Use correct finish for first sealer coat.
CAUSES:
Too much air has worked into the lacquer and late overlapping.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand to bare wood and re-finish.
CAUSES:
Excessively thick initial sealer coat has been applied.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Perform a thorough intermediate sanding with used 120-grit paper or screen. Also flatten the surface gloss with an abrasive (maroon) pad.
CAUSES:
Excessively thick application with brush along the walls and/or brush application have begun to dry before overlapping with a roller.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand to bare wood and re-finish.
By finishing with waterbased TOP FINISHES
CAUSES:
Draft across finish surface. Rolling too quickly. Fast dry-ing. Low relative humidity. Frozen finish or stored in low temperature for a longer period.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand away the bubbles away entirely with used 120 or 150-grit sandpaper and re-finish. If heavy bubbles sand back to bare wood.
CAUSES:
Dust particles, dusty workplace, poor vacuuming. Unclean tools bad mixing hardener.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand away with 150-grade sandpaper and re-finish.
CAUSES:
Silicone problem. Silicone contamination. Contamination of surfaces or tools.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand back to bare wood. Avoid contamination from adjoining surfaces. Re-finish.
CAUSES:
Container not agitated. Uneven application. Uneven drying.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand the surface to an even gloss with 150-grit sandpaper or screen. Also flatten the surface gloss with an abrasive (maroon) pad.
CAUSES:
Contaminated surface, Silicon on surface, grease on surface.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand back to bare wood.
CAUSES:
Cold finish, cold floor. Mixing two brands.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
If heavy marks sand back to bare wood. If just small marks sand with 150-grit paper or screen. Also flatten the surface gloss with an abrasive (maroon) pad.
CAUSES:
Too long drying time, too high humidity, too cold floor or water leaking out from the inside of the roller.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Sand back to bare wood.
CAUSES:
High humidity, low temperature, too heavy (thick) coats or no air movements.
CORRECTIVE ACTIONS:
Room temperature at least 13 °C , relative air humidity not over 80%. Good ventilation (not draught).
Do not store the finish in an excessively hot or cold vehicle. Frozen finish that has thawed can result in problems with air bubbles in the finish.
Bear in mind that tools must not be wet when you begin finishing. Check for water inside the roller.
The ideal drying time of the second and final coat should always be app. 2 hours to dust dry.
By oiling WOODEN FLOORS
The moisture content of the wood should be between 5% and 12%
Do not apply areas larger than 20 m² at a time (10 m² at a time in good drying conditions)
Do not allow unabsorbed oil to dry! Dried unabsorbed oil produces glossy spots on the surface
On wood with low absorption, leave some areas untreated during the first application. These areas will be filled during the redistribution procedure.
The oxygen curing process will be extremely slow if the temperature is below 18 °C.
Floor heating system must be turned on during application and polishing.
Do not polish the surface while warm so as to avoid bleeding back of the oil.
